Wednesday, April 12, 2006

Beyond Chicken Eggs

COOKING IN COMMON
- Carissa Remitz, Special to The Chronicle
Wednesday, April 12, 2006

From Passover seder plates to Easter baskets, eggs are everywhere this time of year. In the Bay Area, restaurant customers can delight in a couple of interesting alternatives to the chicken variety that have taken their place on menus.

At sushi restaurants, quail eggs are commonly enjoyed raw over sashimi. Tweaking this formula is chef Mike Selvera at Bar Crudo (603 Bush St., San Francisco; (415) 956-0396). Selvera serves a hard-boiled quail egg alongside a Rhode Island black bass crudo. He uses the eggs for their delicate flavor, which goes well with the spicy tobiko and blood orange reduction, and because of their small size.

Chef Melissa Perello of Fifth Floor (12 Fourth St., in the Hotel Palomar, San Francisco; (415) 348-1555) serves a warm poached Cidre Loche duck egg with a caviar tasting. Perello uses duck eggs because the yolk is richer than chicken egg yolk and provides more depth of flavor.

At Lark Creek Inn (234 Magnolia Ave., Larkspur; (415) 924-7766), chef Bradley Ogden serves an heirloom chicory and Arrowsmith duck egg salad. He says it makes sense to incorporate duck eggs into the menu because they are sweeter than chicken eggs, in addition to being free range and hormone-free.

Bushi-tei (1638 Post St., San Francisco; (415) 440-4959) chef Seiji "Waka'' Wakabayashi includes a confit of quail swathed in Serrano ham with a quail egg in the middle that unifies the meat, kumquat compote and almonds.

If you want to enjoy duck and quail eggs at home, quail eggs are available for purchase in San Francisco at Super Mira (1790 Sutter St.; (415) 921-6529). Look for duck eggs at farmers' markets and Asian markets.

Carissa Remitz is a graduate of the California Culinary Academy. E-mail comments to her at food@sfchronicle.com.

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